# Baku to the Mountains: A Warm, Practical Guide to Seeing Azerbaijan
The recent **Memorandum of Understanding between the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) and the Azerbaijan Tourism Board** caught my attention because it reflects something I felt while traveling through Azerbaijan: this country is ready to be better known in Asia Pacific.
The agreement is intended to strengthen tourism links, share industry knowledge, and encourage more visitors between Azerbaijan and Asia Pacific markets. That may eventually mean better connections, more travel partnerships, and easier discovery of a destination that still feels refreshingly different from the usual European itinerary.
I spent most of my time around Baku, with a few trips beyond the capital. Here’s how I’d plan it if a friend were going.
## The Vibe & When to Go
Azerbaijan feels like several countries sharing one map. Baku is polished, windy, and modern, with grand stone buildings beside cafés, seaside promenades, and sleek towers. A few hours away, the landscape changes into dry hills, forested mountains, vineyards, and small villages where life moves at a much gentler pace.
The weather depends heavily on where you are. **Spring and autumn are my favorite seasons**, with comfortable days for walking around Baku and exploring places such as Sheki and Quba. Summer can be hot in the capital, although the Caspian breeze helps in the evenings. The mountain regions stay cooler. Winter brings a quieter Baku and good skiing conditions around Shahdag and Tufandag.
If you’re visiting now during the shoulder season, pack layers. I found mornings surprisingly cool, sunny afternoons warm, and evenings breezy near the waterfront.
## Must-See Spots: My Top Picks
### 1. Baku’s Old City and the Sea Boulevard
I’d begin in **Icherisheher**, Baku’s walled Old City. The best way to experience it is to wander without trying to see everything at once. Look for carved doorways, tiny courtyards, carpet shops, and cats sunning themselves on the old stone walls.
The **Maiden Tower** is the obvious landmark, but I enjoyed the quieter streets around it more than the formal sightseeing stops. Climb to a rooftop café for a view over the old walls and the modern skyline beyond.
Afterward, walk down toward **Baku Boulevard**. It stretches along the Caspian Sea and is especially pleasant in the late afternoon. The promenade is broad and easy to explore, with museums, cafés, fountains, and plenty of benches for people-watching.
### 2. The Flame Towers and Highland Park
The Flame Towers are Baku’s most recognizable modern buildings, but the best view is from **Highland Park**, especially around sunset. From there, you can see the Old City, the bay, and the city’s lights beginning to come on.
I recommend taking the funicular uphill and walking back down. The park is calm in the morning, while sunset brings more visitors and photographers. If you continue through the park, you’ll reach the Martyrs’ Lane memorial, a quiet and moving place that deserves a respectful visit.
### 3. Gobustan and the Mud Volcanoes
About an hour south of Baku, **Gobustan National Park** offers a completely different side of Azerbaijan. The rocky landscape is marked with ancient petroglyphs showing people, animals, boats, and hunting scenes.
The nearby mud volcanoes are strange and memorable. They bubble and burp from the earth in a landscape that feels almost otherworldly. Roads can be rough, so I’d arrange a driver or a small group tour rather than rely on public transport.
Wear shoes you don’t mind getting dusty. Bring water, too—there is very little shade around the volcanoes.
### 4. Sheki’s Old Streets and Palace
If you have time for an overnight trip, go to **Sheki**. It has a slower, more intimate feeling than Baku, with leafy streets, old merchant houses, and the beautiful **Palace of Sheki Khans**.
The palace’s stained-glass windows are the main attraction, but I liked strolling around the town afterward. Stop for **Sheki halva**, a rich sweet pastry made with nuts and spices. It is filling, so sharing one is sensible unless you have a serious sweet tooth.
Sheki is also a good base for seeing mountain scenery without committing to a long hiking trip.
## Practical Travel Advice
### Getting There and Visa
Most international travelers arrive through **Heydar Aliyev International Airport in Baku**. Depending on where you’re flying from, connections through Istanbul, Doha, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, or other regional hubs are often the easiest options. The new PATA–Azerbaijan Tourism Board partnership may help strengthen air and tourism links with Asia Pacific over time, but flight schedules still change frequently, so compare routes carefully.
Many nationalities can apply for Azerbaijan’s official **ASAN e-visa** online. It is generally issued for a single entry and allows a stay of up to 30 days, though eligibility depends on your passport. Apply through the official government portal rather than a random visa website.
Processing is commonly available as standard or urgent service. Check the latest rules before booking, particularly if you plan to enter overland. Passenger travel across Azerbaijan’s land borders has had changing restrictions, so flying in is usually the simplest option.
### Where to Stay
– **Icherisheher:** Best for first-time visitors who want history, atmospheric lanes, and easy access to major sights.
– **Fountain Square and Nizami Street:** Convenient, lively, and full of restaurants and cafés. It can be noisy at night.
– **Sahil:** A good middle ground, close to the boulevard, Old City, and metro stations.
– **White City:** More modern and spacious, with smart hotels and waterfront walks. It feels quieter than the central areas.
– **Sheki town center:** Choose a family-run guesthouse for a more personal experience and a chance to eat homemade breakfast.
### Getting Around
Central Baku is very walkable, although some streets are steep around Highland Park. The **Baku Metro** is cheap and useful, and buses cover areas beyond the center. You’ll need a **BakıKart** for public transport; buying one at a metro station is easy.
For short rides, I found **Bolt** practical and usually affordable. Taxis waiting outside major attractions may quote inflated prices, so booking through an app is safer for your budget. Outside Baku, hire a driver or use a reputable day tour for Gobustan, mountain villages, and the mud volcanoes.
Trains can be useful between Baku and some larger towns, but schedules and routes may not suit every itinerary. For Sheki, I’d check the current timetable early or arrange a car.
## Real Costs and Local Tips
Azerbaijan uses the **manat, written as AZN**. Prices vary sharply between Baku and smaller towns.
### Rough daily budgets
**Budget traveler: AZN 70–110 per day**
– Hostel or simple guesthouse: AZN 20–45
– Local meals and bakeries: AZN 15–30
– Metro, buses, and occasional short taxi rides: AZN 5–15
– One inexpensive attraction or coffee: AZN 5–15
**Mid-range traveler: AZN 160–280 per day**
– Comfortable hotel: AZN 90–170
– Restaurant meals: AZN 40–75
– Taxis and sightseeing: AZN 20–50
– Extra snacks, museums, or a guided visit: AZN 10–30
Prices rise for large events and during the busiest summer weekends. Hotels in central Baku can also be more expensive than expected, so booking a few weeks ahead helps.
Tipping is not always required, but leaving around **5–10%** for good restaurant service is appreciated. Check the bill first, since a service charge may already be included. For taxis, rounding up is fine.
### A few local tricks that helped me
– **Use Bolt instead of negotiating with taxis on the street.** It saves both money and awkward conversations.
– **Eat lunch where office workers eat.** Set menus and local cafés are usually far better value than restaurants directly beside the Old City gates.
– **Carry small manat notes.** Small shops, bakeries, and minibuses may not accept large bills or cards.
– **Try local dishes beyond kebab.** Look for qutab, plov, dolma, piti, and fresh tandir bread. The smaller neighborhood restaurants often serve more memorable food than polished tourist spots.
– **Keep your plans flexible outside Baku.** Mountain weather can change quickly, and a driver may suggest a village or viewpoint that isn’t in your guidebook.
Azerbaijan is a particularly good choice if you enjoy cities with personality, long lunches, unusual landscapes, and travel days that don’t always unfold exactly as planned. The PATA agreement may bring more Asia Pacific visitors in the years ahead, but for now, Azerbaijan still feels like a place you can discover at your own pace.
KEYWORDS: Baku Azerbaijan